Dermatologists on the Benefits and Risks of Dermaplaning

Dermaplaning, or face shaving, has garnered over 3.3 billion TikTok views — a big feat on a platform filled with skincare trends. There are thousands of tutorials, tips, jokes, and soothing videos of people undergoing the process.

"Dermaplaning is a manual exfoliation process using a sharp blade against the skin," Dr. Joshua Zeichner, an associate professor of dermatology at the Mount Sinai Hospital in New York City, told Insider. "At the same time, it removes both dead cells and hair." The blade shaves away the tiny hairs on your cheeks and jawline, while also gently scraping away flaky skin.

Dermatologists say there are multiple benefits you can get from face shaving including a glowy complexion — but there are risks that might come with doing it too often.

According to Dr. Cameron Rokhsar, an associate clinical professor of dermatology at Mount Sinai Hospital, "the number one benefit is a lot of people with peach fuzz could benefit from getting rid of their hair." Doing so can make products like foundation look less cakey, and "allow light to better reflect off the surface of the skin," said Zeichner, thus brightening your complexion.

In the long term, regular dermaplaning is believed to have anti-aging effects and work similarly to microneedling. "Low-grade trauma to the skin may simulate a wound-healing response to stimulate collagen," said Zeichner. This can increase cell turnover and, over time, "improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles."

According to Rokhsar, this school of thought comes from observing men shaving. Some believe men's skin "doesn't wrinkle as much" as women's because many men regularly shave their faces, thus boosting their skin's collagen production — though this is just a hypothesis and has not been backed by scientific studies.

Part of the appeal of dermaplaning is how it subverts the archaic beauty advice women often hear to never shave their faces, as the hair is believed to grow back thicker. But this isn't true, said Rokhsar.

Both Rokhsar and Zeichner said that when it's performed properly, the procedure is safe and effective. However, "overdoing it can lead to skin irritation and inflammation," said Zeichner, who recommends only dermaplaning once a week.

He also said you can use a straight-edge razor or a device with an oscillating blade — noting to be careful about cutting yourself or pressing down too hard. And, as with any skincare routine, you should avoid touching active acne, as it can lead to scarring or worse breakouts.

While there are plenty of online tutorials and affordable razors, Rokhsar said dermaplaning can be hard to do by yourself and recommends seeing an esthetician who can effectively remove all the hair without you worrying about any "Edward Scissorhands"-style face cuts. According to RealSelf.com, the average cost of a dermaplaning session is about $105.